All parts of any automotive vehicle require regular maintenance. On boats, one of the most important parts that require regular maintenance is the engine. Outboard motors are one of the best types of engines for your boat.

Most outboards are lighter and more fuel efficient than other motor options, which is why they’re such a good choice. Since they’re located outside of the boat, they also give you more space to move around. Their position outside of the boat also makes it easier to remove them for regular maintenance.

Sometimes, you’ll need a professional to perform that maintenance; however, you can sometimes do it yourself. We have the DIY edition of how to service an outboard motor ready for you below.

Buy or Make an Outboard Stand

The first step of servicing your outboard motor by yourself is to get it on a stand. A stand will allow you to easily access all parts of the outboard, both the power head and the lower leg/unit. You can purchase various sizes and types of stands for between $50 and $100. If you plan to regularly perform your own maintenance, then this is a good investment.

But if a professional will perform at least half of your outboard service, you may prefer to build a cheaper outboard stand yourself. Simply secure a two-by-four piece of wood to scaffolding or another weighted structure to create a stand.

Flush the Engine With Fresh Water

Once your outboard is on its stand, you can start servicing it. The first step is to flush the engine with fresh water. Even if your most recent boat venture was in fresh water, you still need to flush it with fresh water. Dirt, microscopic organisms, bacteria, and other contaminants can enter your engine from fresh water just as much as from salt water. Salt water just has the extra component of salt to worry about. Flushing the engine with fresh water—regardless of your previous boating location—will help remove everything from the engine.

We suggest investing in an engine flusher with connected flexible rubber seals. One of the rubber seals can connect with your fresh water source, such as a hose, while the other plugs into the water intake.

Remove the Cowl To Drain the Fuel

You may have loosened or fully removed the cowl to attach the engine flusher. However, if you didn’t, then remove the cowl now so you can drain the fuel. Draining the fuel is a lot like flushing the engine but with more steps.

First, you’ll submerge the lower leg of the outboard in a container of fresh water. Next, you’ll detach the fuel hose and drain the gas. You may also need to clean or dispose of the inline fuel filter if your engine has one.

After draining the gas, you need to remove any leftover fuel from the engine. Do this by turning it on and letting it run until it stops. Once it stops, turn it off and then remove the fuel bowl to locate the carburetor bowl. Empty the carburetor bowl if there’s any leftover gas in it.

Wipe the Engine Down With a Clean Cloth

After you’ve drained the fuel from the engine, you can visually inspect the parts for problems. If you find any major problems, such as rusted or broken parts, you may need to consult with a professional. But if your engine is still in good shape, then just wipe it down with a clean, lint-free cloth.

Remove the Propeller and Check for Damage

The lower leg of your outboard requires just as much attention as the power head. After you’ve finished the maintenance on the power head, you can remove the propeller from the lower leg. To do so, you’ll also need to remove the prop washer and castellated nut. Some models also have a cotter pin. Importantly, once you remove a cotter pin, you will have to replace it with a new one. After everything is off, visually inspect the propeller for any problems.

If you don’t find any problems that require attention from you or a professional, you can start cleaning it. To do so, wipe off any old grease with a clean, lint-free cloth.

Reassemble the Propeller

Now that you’ve inspected and cleaned the propeller, you can reassemble it. Slide the propeller back on, along with the prop washer and castellated nut. If your propeller uses a cotter pin, then you will need to replace that as well. As we mentioned above, you will need a new cotter pin since you’ll need to bend the ends to hold everything in place.

Add an Anticorrosive and Lubricant Wherever Necessary

Your outboard is almost done! Now, you just need to go over the power head and lower leg with an anticorrosive agent and lubricant.

Most anticorrosives come as sprays, such as WD-40. Always work with sprays in a well-ventilated area. To apply the anticorrosive, hold the can several inches away from the parts you’re working on, and then spray. If you’re spraying moving parts, then manually adjust them so the anticorrosive agent totally covers the parts. Do this on the power head and lower leg of your outboard.

WD-40 also acts as a lubricant. However, some people use other supplies for lubrication. No matter what you use, apply it gently and thoroughly to the moving parts of your outboard. You may want to use a cloth to rub the lubricant into hard-to-reach areas.

Finally, replace the cowl and wipe down its exterior with a lint-free cloth. Your outboard is now ready for another day on the water or for safe storage!

While this DIY edition of how to service an outboard motor won’t guide you through serious maintenance your engine may need, it will help you perform simple services on your own. If you notice problems or damage to engine parts or if your engine is failing despite proper maintenance, take it to a professional. RJ Nautical offers Yamaha outboard service for when you need a professional’s assistance. We’re happy to help you keep your outboard in top shape!